mountaineering

  • Aconcagua

    I am reviewing the book The True Peruvian Route by Mark Horrell which is a very good book which I bought from kindle. Mount Aconcagua is just about in Argentina and is very close to the border with Peru. It's the highest mountain in the Southern Hemisphere at a tad under 7,000 metres. This book is about an ascent up this mountain by the author and an assorted group from several different countries some of which were a bit inexperienced. They went with a peruvian guide who had discovered this route up the mountain some years ago. The traditional way up Aconcagua is called the Polish Glacier Route which was first climbed by a polish team although technically it doesn't follow a glacier. The other route is called The False Polish Glacier Route which the author renamed The True Peruvian Route and is the best route up the mountain because it avoids the ice sheet which tends to go hard when it doesn't snow and it becomes difficult to drive anything into it like spikes. Their guide held the world record for the most ascents of Aconcagua at 56 & apparently on 3 occasions when he was taking a more gentle approach up the mountain, a stray dog followed him to the summit. Someone did joke that maybe the dog has climbed the mountain more times than him. According to Argentine law there is a basecamp part way up the mountain, manned by doctors which examine you to make sure you are able to climb the mountain. These doctors are quite junior and a bit inexperienced about altitude and sometimes make the wrong decision at least according to the author. Often the climber is the best judge of whether he is capable or not at least when an experienced climber. I think he might have a point there. Apparently Mark has a web site at http://markhorrell.com .This book isn't quite as good as the one on Columbia but is still pretty good.

Categories